You Won’t Believe What Chittagong Hides Behind Those Hills
I’ll be real with you—before visiting Chittagong, Bangladesh, I pictured it as just another busy port city. But wow, was I wrong. From misty hilltops to quiet riverbanks, the scenic beauty here hits you like a surprise plot twist. This isn’t just travel; it’s discovery. In this piece, I’ll take you through the landscapes that stole my breath, the spots locals cherish, and why Chittagong deserves a top spot on your Southeast Asia list.
First Impressions: Beyond the Bustling Port
Chittagong greets you with energy. The moment you step off the train or pull into the city by road, a wave of motion surrounds you—rickshaws weaving through traffic, vendors calling out over the hum of motorbikes, the scent of street food mingling with salt from the nearby Bay of Bengal. As Bangladesh’s largest seaport, the city pulses with commerce. Cranes dot the skyline, loading and unloading ships that connect this region to global trade routes. At first glance, it’s easy to assume Chittagong is all industry and urban sprawl.
Yet, within minutes of leaving the central districts, the landscape begins to shift. The air grows cooler. Roads start to climb, winding upward into rolling green hills. It’s this transition that surprises most visitors. One moment you’re in a bustling urban center, and the next, you’re passing tea gardens draped over slopes like patchwork quilts. The city doesn’t end—it unfolds. This duality is part of what makes Chittagong so compelling. It’s a place where economic vitality meets untouched natural beauty, often within a short drive of each other.
The gateway to this transformation? Foy’s Lake, just a few kilometers from the city center. This man-made reservoir, nestled in a valley, offers an immediate escape. Families gather here on weekends, strolling along tree-lined paths or enjoying boat rides on the calm water. From the cable car that loops above the lake, you get your first panoramic view of how the city and nature coexist. And beyond Foy’s Lake, the road continues upward, leading toward the Chittagong Hill Tracts—a region so distinct in terrain and culture that it feels like entering another world.
The Green Crown: Exploring the Chittagong Hill Tracts
If Chittagong is a gem, then the Chittagong Hill Tracts are its crown. Covering the southeastern part of the country, this highland region spans three main districts: Rangamati, Banderban, and Khagrachhari. These hills are not towering peaks, but rather a series of soft, forested ridges that rise gently from the plains, creating a landscape of layered greens. The biodiversity here is remarkable—lush tropical forests shelter rare birds, deer, and even clouded leopards, though sightings are rare and protected by conservation efforts.
Hiking through Banderban, I was struck by how quiet it felt. The air was crisp, scented with pine and damp earth. Trails led through bamboo groves and past terraced farms where indigenous communities grow rice, vegetables, and betel nut. Each turn revealed a new vista: a valley carpeted in mist, a waterfall tucked behind boulders, or a village perched on a ridge with red-tiled roofs glowing in the afternoon sun. The roads themselves are part of the experience—narrow, winding, and often carved into steep slopes, they deliver one breathtaking view after another.
Rangamati, often called the heart of the hill tracts, offers a different kind of beauty. Situated along the shores of Kaptai Lake—the largest man-made lake in Bangladesh—it blends water and forest in a way that feels almost Mediterranean. Boats glide across the lake at dawn, their silhouettes reflected in the still water. The region is home to several indigenous groups, including the Marma, Chakma, and Tripura peoples, whose cultures have thrived here for centuries. Their stilt houses, traditional clothing, and Buddhist temples add a quiet dignity to the landscape. Travelers are welcomed, but with an unspoken understanding: this is not a spectacle. It’s a way of life that deserves respect.
Rangamati Lake: Where Water Meets Sky
There’s a moment at sunrise on Rangamati Lake when the world feels suspended. The water is so still it mirrors the sky like glass. Mist hovers just above the surface, softening the edges of the hills. As the sun rises, the colors shift—from pale gray to gold, then to a deep, shimmering blue. It’s a sight that stays with you, not because it’s dramatic, but because it’s peaceful. In a world that rarely slows down, this lake offers something rare: stillness.
Kaptai Lake, formed in the 1960s by the construction of the Kaptai Dam on the Karnaphuli River, covers over 600 square kilometers. While it was built for hydroelectric power, it has become an unexpected haven for beauty and recreation. The lake’s many inlets and islands create a maze of quiet coves, perfect for exploration. Local wooden boats, painted in bright colors, ferry visitors between villages and viewpoints. A ride to the Shuvolong Waterfall, often called the Niagara of Bangladesh, takes you deep into the forest, where the sound of rushing water replaces the hum of the city.
What makes Rangamati Lake special is how accessible serenity feels here. Even during peak season, when families and tourists gather on the waterfront, there’s a sense of calm. Perhaps it’s the rhythm of the boats, or the way the hills cradle the lake like hands. Locals often say the lake has a healing quality—not in a mystical sense, but in the way nature quietly restores balance. Whether you’re sitting on a bench with a cup of tea or floating in a boat with your eyes closed, the stress of daily life begins to dissolve. It’s not an escape, exactly. It’s a reminder of how beautiful ordinary moments can be when you’re surrounded by grace.
Banderban’s Secret Spots: Beyond the Golden Temple
Most guidebooks will tell you to visit the Shwemawdaw Paya, Banderban’s golden Buddhist temple, perched on a hilltop with sweeping views. It’s certainly worth seeing. But the real magic of Banderban lies off the main road, in places that don’t always make the maps. Thanchi Valley, for instance, is a hidden stretch of farmland and forest that feels untouched by time. Roads here are unpaved, and travel is slow—often by motorcycle or four-wheel drive. But the journey is part of the reward.
As you descend into the valley, the air cools, and the sound of birds replaces engine noise. Terraced fields climb the hillsides, worked by hand in ways that have changed little over generations. Women in colorful saris bend over rice paddies, their movements rhythmic and steady. Children wave from doorways. There’s a simplicity here that feels grounding. And then, from a high point along the ridge, you see it: a valley blanketed in green, with wisps of cloud drifting between the trees. It’s not a postcard view—it’s better. It’s real.
Another hidden gem is Nilgiri, or Blue Mountain, one of the highest peaks in Bangladesh. The climb is steep, and the trail is unmarked in places, but reaching the summit at dawn is unforgettable. As the light spreads across the horizon, you can see layer after layer of hills fading into the distance, like waves frozen in time. On clear days, the view stretches all the way to the border with Myanmar. Few tourists make it this far, and that’s part of the appeal. This isn’t a destination for crowds. It’s for those who seek quiet, who don’t mind a little effort for a moment of awe.
For responsible travelers, this means treading lightly. Avoid loud behavior, ask permission before photographing people, and support local guides rather than large tour operators. These communities value their privacy and traditions. When you visit with care, you’re not just a tourist—you become part of a respectful exchange.
Foy’s Lake and City Escapes: Nature Within Reach
Not every moment of beauty requires a long journey. Sometimes, it’s enough to step just outside your door. Foy’s Lake, named after a British engineer who helped develop the city in the early 20th century, proves that even in an urban setting, nature can thrive. The lake is surrounded by a well-maintained park with walking trails, gardens, and shaded benches. Families come here to picnic, couples stroll hand in hand, and children chase each other around playgrounds. It’s a place of everyday joy.
The cable car that loops above the lake offers one of the most underrated views in Chittagong. As you rise above the treetops, the city spreads out below—clusters of buildings, patches of green, and the shimmering water below. It’s not a thrill ride, but a slow, peaceful glide that lets you breathe. From this height, the noise fades, and for a few minutes, you’re suspended between earth and sky. It’s a small moment, but in a busy life, small moments matter.
What makes Foy’s Lake stand out is how integrated it is into daily life. Unlike some tourist-heavy parks, this is a local favorite. You’ll see elders doing tai chi at sunrise, students reading under trees, and friends sharing snacks on benches. It’s a reminder that scenic beauty doesn’t have to be remote or exclusive. It can be part of your routine. In this way, Foy’s Lake mirrors other successful urban-nature spaces in South Asia, like Dal Lake in Srinagar or Rabindra Sarobar in Kolkata—places where city dwellers reconnect with nature without leaving home.
Journey Through the Passes: The Roads That Wow
Some travelers fly from place to place, eager to reach the destination. But in Chittagong, the journey is half the experience. The roads that connect the city to the hill tracts are not just pathways—they’re part of the scenery. The Sitakunda foothills, just north of Chittagong, mark the beginning of this visual feast. As the road climbs, switchbacks cut through dense forest, offering sudden views of the valley below. At certain bends, you can pull over and stand at the edge, watching clouds drift between the hills.
Further east, the road to Rangamati and Banderban unfolds like a ribbon through the landscape. Each kilometer brings a new perspective—rice fields carved into slopes, villages clinging to ridges, waterfalls tumbling down mossy rocks. The drive is slow, not because of traffic, but because you keep stopping to take photos or just to stare. There’s a rhythm to it, a sense of unfolding discovery that you can’t rush.
For those planning the trip, a few practical tips help. The best time to drive is early morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the roads are less crowded. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended, especially during the monsoon season when some routes become slippery. While the roads are generally safe, they can be narrow and winding, so cautious driving is essential. Hiring a local driver familiar with the terrain is often the best choice—it supports the community and ensures a smoother journey. More than anything, allow extra time. This isn’t a commute. It’s a moving meditation through one of South Asia’s most underrated landscapes.
Why Chittagong Stays With You
Months after my visit, I still find myself thinking about Chittagong. Not just the views, though those remain vivid—the mist over Rangamati Lake, the golden light on Banderban’s hills, the quiet path around Foy’s Lake at dusk. What lingers is the feeling. A sense of peace. A reminder that beauty doesn’t have to be loud or famous to be meaningful. Chittagong doesn’t shout. It whispers. And if you listen, it tells a story of balance—between city and forest, movement and stillness, tradition and change.
This region stays with you because it feels authentic. There are no overpriced resorts or crowded selfie spots. The people you meet aren’t performing for tourists. They’re living their lives, and if you’re respectful, they’ll let you share in their world for a little while. That kind of connection is rare. It’s not something you can buy. It’s something you earn by showing up with curiosity and kindness.
If you’re planning a trip to South Asia, don’t overlook Chittagong. It won’t be in every brochure, and it might not have the name recognition of Bali or Bangkok. But that’s part of its charm. Here, you can walk a trail without seeing another tourist. You can sit by a lake and hear only the wind. You can drive for hours and feel like you’re the only person in the world. These are not just travel experiences. They’re moments of clarity.
So go with an open mind. Bring good shoes, a reusable water bottle, and a camera if you like. But more than that, bring respect. Learn a few words in the local languages. Smile. Ask permission. Listen more than you speak. Because the true beauty of Chittagong isn’t just in what you see. It’s in how you feel when you’re there—and how that feeling stays with you long after you’ve returned home. Scenic beauty isn’t just seen. It’s felt, remembered, and quietly carried forward, like a secret you’re grateful to have discovered.